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Ok, I'm putting a 235 into my 1948 Chevy Fleetline. I just bought a waterpump from NAPA. How do I shorten the shaft so it doesn't hit my radiator, and what pully do I use. I know Patrick's sells them, but $140. is more than I can afford.
TIA
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Dear Tia; NAPA sells a 'short version' of that pump too. I would make an "exchange deal" there. Otherwise Patrick's is the place. It will be cheaper there, than paying a Machine Shop to make you one, or moving the core suport. Good luck.
John M., I.I. #3370
"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
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You can shorten your own pump. First you need to find a low-dish pulley. You can use the front pulley from a '58-'62 car 235 with A/C (very hard to find) or a pulley from a Ford truck straight six, easily found in a junk yard. The bolt holes, dish, diameter and pulley groove is the same on both. I have both of these, the one from the Ford is in my truck on my 261.
I suggest you practice on an old pump before you do this with a new one:
Measure the differance in dish between the old and new pulley. Using an arbor or hydraulic press, press the bushing that the pulley mounts to on the water pump shaft down that distance, then put it on the engine with the pulley and check that the belt lines up. Cut off the extra shaft with a grinder.
This option costs much less than any of the kits and works just fine. If you are really ambitious get two water pumps, shorten them both, then put one of them in a box on your shelf as a spare.
I have not had luck at NAPA finding a short shaft water pump.
1950 Chevy pickup with '62 261, 4 speed.
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you can also get an adapter for about $100 that will allow you to use the shorter water pump right off the shelf
'59 Chevy BelAir (v8) '50 Chevy Fleetline DeLuxe ('55 235) '48 Chevy Fleetmaster coupe (late 261) Chicago
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If I were going to cut the shaft , and I have done this modification before ,I would take the pump to a machine shop to get it cut . The shop would use a liquid cooled saw , which would not get the shaft as hot as a grinder would . The heat could ruin the seal . I think my local shop charged 2 or 3 dollars last time I had them cut one for me . Just my opinion .
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Also,if you have access to a chop saw and a "vee" block to align the shaft; a quick, clean cut can be made.
Drew Mid-Atlantic Chapter
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Dear Tia; What these gentlemen suggest is; The "way it is done" etc. However; This is not a job everyone can do and you cannot return the 'modified' pump. If you attempt it, be sure the impeller is tight against the seal or it will leak. Good luck.
John M., I.I. #3370
"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
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There ia an adapter being sold on Ebay for $40 that would alow the use of the earlier style waterpump, should you want that option.
I.I. #3174
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When I cut my shaft with a grinder it did not get hot enough to even burn my hand at the seal end. The flange conducted most of the heat out to the vise. I've had it on there for 4 years and it hasn't leaked yet.
1950 Chevy pickup with '62 261, 4 speed.
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