Inliners International Forums General Discussion Truck Talk Camber angle

Are you sure you mean camber?

I would guess camber to be very small and (perhaps) negative (wheel leans in at the top).
Caster determines self-centering, always points forward. Higher speed: more angle (but Tony Foale's work argues that trail is more important than the angle). High angle means high steering effort but tracks straight ahead more reliably, small angle wanders easily. What numbers? These were commonly made to be shimmed to adjust the KP angle, ask if that's possible. You may use the original number and be miserable. Power steering may allow a higher angle without excess arm fatigue.

Yes, either a wedge (thick end faces forward) or only shim the front bolts, etc.
The trail is harder to figure, since it involves the front wheel & tire radius as well as the design of the KP (not just its inclination). Even very low caster ("rake" in a motorcycle) is stable if the trail is enough. This is the distance a theoretical line drawn through the KP axis intersects the ground, compared to a vertical line through the spindle, in inches. Zero trail is a shopping cart.

Are you planning on doing this so you can use the 12.88" brakes you have available? I ask because I converted my '46 Ford pickup over to Speedway brakes (11" rotors, Chevelle calipers) For $315. Complete. You may end up spending more than that for the custom axle / spindles and related machining. And my truck stops just fine - way better than the original hydraulic drum brakes. So - maybe sell your Wilwood parts and consider a complete kit from Speedway or wherever.

mick53,

I'm a dipstick, I hadn't looked at this tread to be honest. A little light went on in my head as I understand what you're doing...LOL

I was trying to fully understand your problem, and don't understand suspension well enough to offer any advice. Given that fact, I thought I might be able to embarrass myself and ask some really dumb questions.

Ultimately it seems having no camber when the truck is driving it the best, it is why cars get corner balanced. I have had my 911 corner balanced and it is amazing how nice it drives after it is balanced. The rear will always change as the car accelerates/decelerates naturally.
I am using stock frame. My engine mounts were made by CCP I think. They made a 1/4" plate to bring them straight across and then used a biscuit mount going to a cee channel that fits over my frame cee channel.I will then make a block to fill the void and bolt through the vertical part of the frame and the mount. I was told not to weld it or bolt through the top and bottom.
I know the place I've had corner balance my 911 also does older vintage suspensions. I've seen them do it with a machine that spins the wheel on the car after it's mounted. Then they dial it in until it runs true.

In the best world wouldn't it be 0 degrees camber? As long as you set it for no camber, you could adjust it in/out if any was there after the wheel is mounted. (I think )

This sounds like an amazing front end. I don't know if I will modify mine to that extent at some point, but have pondered it...and have talked to Wayne at Code504 in the past, real nice guy.

How did you add the 292? Did you use a kit, or roll your own?

Are you using the stock frame?

Making the mounting brackets for the calipers sounds like a decent little project. Someone on a CNC could do it in no time most likely. I would do something like that manually and take much longer. But it can't be too difficult to make. How would you mount it? Bolts or weld?

Sorry for all the Qs, but now I'm much more curious to understand what you're doing! LOL

Would love to see some pics of your project.