Inliners International Forums General Discussion Truck Talk Keroppi, my 1946 Chevy 3100

I'm a new forum member here, and posting the standard obligatory "Hey, I'm a new forum member" post.

This forum doesn't look too busy.

When I was looking for an Art Deco era truck, the beautiful blue with black fenders that is pictured on the banner had caught my attention early in my search. It really is a beautiful truck.

The truck I bought is more on the original side, has old patina, was painted with Rustoleum using a brush from the looks of it, and in general just an 'ol '46 pickup. Came from North Carolina where it lived most all of it's life on a farm, then lived for about a year in Missouri, and now will be in California for the remainder of it's life...maybe the remainder of my life would be more accurate...

I look forward to exchanging information with like minded folks that like to tinker and work on their trucks. My intention is to drive this, not restore it to it's original glory, so this truck will be a driver.

Initially I had a ground problem, and ended up replacing the battery cables 2/0 as my truck is still 6 volt. This seems to have fixed the intermittent starting problem I was seeing.

Now I'm looking at the brakes so I can get it road friendly and finish my registration.

The truck has a '55-'62 235 in it, but not too much of the electronics are working, that will be on my list of things to do...it has a gas tank in the bed, but the original is still under the seat also...

Here's a few videos the seller posted when I bought the truck, I moved them over to my YouTube account. Let see if this works.

It looks like a pretty solid and unmolested old truck. Welcome to the site. Looking forward to seeing more.

On our forums we're striving for quality not quantity . . .

Welcome aboard. Your '46 is a nice find. Glad you're gonna drive it. That's what they were made for.

I agree, but haven't been able to spend too much time with it yet after I got the ground issue fixed on the starter/engine.

I just noticed that playlist didn't work correctly on YT, so I just added the separate videos.


Not a problem for me. Actually I've run into a bit of adversity in regard to Chevy forums. I try to be considerate to others and leave respectable posts, but on Stovebolt the moderation was very heavy handed, like 1 out of 10 threads being locked...The way the moderators deals with issues over there is unacceptable. They modified a message I posted but the moderator told me he didn't have the time or could he take the time to make a notation. That was my last use of Stovebolt.

I tried the VCCA Chat Forums, but it was more like a group of old Grandmas at the knitting group trying to figure out how to "knit one, purl two". They banned me for about 5 days because they said I was "not being civil and several members complained about my attitude". The last thread I was in they were splitting hairs over my truck not being "original" because it has a newer 235 engine in it, or that I plan to upgrade the ring/pinion to a 3.55:1 set to make it more highway friendly which was not original. I felt a bit bad, my truck has "radials" on it. They treated my truck as it was a "hot rod". I never wanted to go to any car show and understand how these vehicles are judges, it just doesn't interest me. I looked at a few restored trucks that were nicer than mine, but to me they were not original, at least my truck is pretty unmolested, as BOP points out...I feel so also...it is a 72 year old truck. I like the patina, I like the cracked windows, I like the dings and dents...but I want to make it mechanically sound, upgrade the rear end (I have the ring/pinion already), brakes working, all the gauges working, and drive it...


I'm not looking for any drama, I have enough of that in my life already...was just looking for like minded people with old trucks that work on them and drive them. Maintaining and working on old trucks is an art in itself, something I'm not new to, but new to Art Deco era pickups...and looking for people that are familiar with it, who won't treat me like a little kid on the Internet and are capable of holding a rational conversation.

It's your truck, do what you want with it. There are a lot of drivers here and mostly guys that tend to make them more current driving demand friendly. We are a very eclectic group. If it has an inline engine it belongs here. We try to keep the drama to a minimum while at the same time feed our enthusiasm. Things flair up from time to time like in any family. Stock49 is working to get our site to be more driver friendly as well. There is a good and active local chapter of Inliners International in Northern California, check them out. That blue and black pickup you like may be one of them.

Welcome. I'm building a crazy Chevy 53 3100 pickup and people put up with me. When it comes to inlines of any breed you are in the right place. I don't think anywhere near the box and nobody here has ever put me down. More of a "let's think about this" attitude. As the man said your truck, your money and your dream. Just take us with you and share the joy.

BOTP,

Indeed I do plan that and not too interested what the car show crowd thinks of it, because I couldn't agree with you more...it's *MY* truck.

Just bothers me that people would even suggest that my truck is not original because it has a slightly newer 235 in it, or that it has radials on it, or other nit-picking...I sold vintage guitars for a number of years in the past and I would consider a guitar with original paint to be more original that one that was refinished. It's really a matter of perspective I guess...


Sounds like my type of place. I am not trying to be difficult, and that goes for other forums as well, but I've just noticed some pretty anal folks in the vintage chevy crowd, not sure why. That blue truck with black fenders is a beautiful looking truck. I don't know if/when I will paint mine, I kinda like the old patina...but I might in the future after I get it all running well.


Indeed that is my plan Mick. Thanks for the welcome. If I do get out of hand, don't be afraid to slap me, I don't mind that if it is deserved. I am just getting too old to argue and debate with folks on the Internet.

There is another friendly site you could try. Rusty Bowtie ( HERE ) is mostly more modern V8-auto "street rod" style but they are very open friendly guys. There is a ton of skill there and some off topic discussions. It is a small group. One of the best things is a list of links to other sites and parts venders put up by members. It is about Chevys/GM but there is a place for others too. No drama at all.

Some of those "antique" sites think they are protecting the purity of their brand. That do tend to get picky. I joined HET (Hudson-Essex-Teraplane) site to get help with my 1919 Essex racer build. I got none. The Studebaker Drivers club is a great group. If it was ever a Studebaker it it still a Studebaker with them though there are purest there we were welcomed with my son's modified '54 station wagon. There is another Stude club that is not so friendly.
As said before this place is mostly about engines though we are interested where they are it's about interest and not judgment. They are still letting me stick around maybe against better judgement.

Thanks for that tip, I'll check it out. Actually, although I am not planning to street-rod my pickup, much of the stuff I want to do is probably stuff that could be more suited to that crowd. The car show crowd is very against any type of non-OEM modification, being more concerned with how judges would score their cars and trucks...but I am more concerned about some stuff that will make the truck more convenient for me, not the judges.

EDIT: Registration is disabled, unfortunately...


I'd say we might be lucky to have you around after that Death Wheel event!

BTW, that reminds me, I don't know what one needs to do in order to be approved on the H.A.M.B. but I just guess Ryan does't like me. I've tried to register at least a half dozen times, not the slightest in the way of a response. That goes for before and after I bought my pickup. Seems like that would be a good place for me, despite my truck being pretty much OEM, but those folks are not afraid to modify a vehicle.

Merry Xmas to all Inliners, may the 6 be with you!

You shouldn't have a problem on the H.A.M.B. Just don't talk about anything after 1964 or so. They are pretty forgiving about brake and drivetrain mods. Not real hot on discs, EFI, or electronic ignition that doesn't fit inside a distributer. Lots of good ideas there. You can post pictures there from your desktop or your phone too I think.

You shouldn't have a problem on the H.A.M.B. Just don't talk about anything after 1964 or so. They are pretty forgiving about brake and drivetrain mods. Not real hot on discs, EFI, or electronic ignition that doesn't fit inside a distributer. Lots of good ideas there. You can post pictures there from your desktop or your phone too I think.

BOTP,

My problem is that Ryan doesn't seem to want to approve me over on the H.A.M.B., so it's not a matter of any specific topic, it's trying to figure out what I need to do in order to be approved so I can even post.

How to get banned from HAMB: point out how a "respected" member is completely wrong.
IIRC I mentioned that Ford did not invent the flathead engine in 1932, and BANG "don't come back!"

I mentioned once that Ford/Merc flatheads are only competitive at Bonnevelle because they only race against each other. Every other brand has to duke it out. They didn't like it but they didn't ban me. They have their own version of hot rod history there. But there is a lot of good stuff too.

IMHO the '32 V8 was a great thing back in the day. Chevy only had a L6 pushrod OHV, and for many people "a V8 is better".
The decay of the Ford as a sacred icon began in 1949, when you could get an OHV pushrod, parallel valve, quench chamber (sound familiar? Also describes an LSX) 160 hp Cadillac 331 from a JY that had hot flathead power as it came out of the car. Chrysler closed the door in 1951 with the 331 hemi. Garlits once blew up his Ford dragster engine and used the Chrysler 354 out of his truck, and it was faster...

Well, I'm no Ford fan as of recent, although I do own a Ford 1-1/2 ton flat bed, if it was easy to replace it with a Chevy I would. In my quest to understand the speed limitations on the older vehicles, I came across quite a bit of information about Henry Ford. I'm gonna be nice here and just say that he was a disgusting man. If I never own another Ford I won't be hurt. Henry Ford was a bigot, racist, even a vocal antisemitic which is humorous as he was one of the biggest megalomaniacs in the history of America, on the level of Henry Disston, Rockefeller, Jobs, Gates, et al...


It certainly was, but it was brought on by Chevy's inline 6. The most innovative thing about the 32 V-8 was the fact that it had a single piece cast block. That piece is innovative, although in the end Chevy kicked their @$$ with the SBC. The overhead cam V8 offered so many possibilities in regard to cooling and modifications.

All that is pretty much history, it can't be changed, IMO.

Previous to buying my 'ol '46 I was looking at Fords. I really did want a BB or a B, for the very reason that in '32 they changed to the Model B.

It really wasn't until the 50s when they became more streamline, stronger bodies, bigger V8 engines, but I longed for the old style crank windshield, the big grills, headlight buckets, et al


And they were only able to sell it for about 50 or 60 years, go figure...LOL


But it is worth pondering that even Ford enthusiasts put SBCs in their resto-mods...

BOTP,

I did get a reply from Ryan today, so maybe I will get approved.

I see an "Antiquated" section that I would most likely fit into.

I was down looking at my brakes today, but couldn't get the bleeder loose on the first wheel, I will replace it. I wanted to make sure I don't crack anything while using a BFH on it, it seems to be rusted on. I sprayed some PB Blaster on it a few times and will revisit tomorrow.

The wheel turns, so the shoes are not stuck, AFAICT.

I was trying to keep from opening up the system, but I can get a clean shot at the brake line to get off. At this point I think I will do that and get the brake line off, so I can use some heat if needed.

I don't get it, in your case your wheel was falling off...in my case I can't get it off...LOL

What to do when it's Sunday night and you only have 3 wheel cylinder pistons and you need 4?

Make one, of course...new one is on the left, just need to chamfer and polish it.






I only had a square chunk of durabar, so turned it round.



The cylinder seems happy, so I won't tell it otherwise!

Very impressive! When people tell me they don't make that I say someone will.

Hah, not very impressive at all, it's but a wheel cylinder piston. Impressive is your project...

For me it's just about doing it. Sometimes I would buy it online, but if I can make something I will probably try...I had been pondering why there hasn't been any better material used for pistons, but the cylinders are cast iron. My original pistons are cast iron. I know folks do use aluminum. It is easier to work with. The reason I used cast iron is that there's a small amount of graphite in it and that acts as a lubricant in a bearing type situation. As such, some mills came with cast iron nuts on the table screw. Aluminum, OTOH, will gall when reaching high temps such as a no lubrication condition.

At the end of the day I'm gonna replace these with Bendix anyway! That said, the piston wouldn't be any different. However it seems the Bendix wheel cylinder has a larger bore.

I'm certain a better material could be used, I thought it would be cool to make some bronze pistons...but there are more factors involved like type of lubrication and such...in this case it's not worth trying to re-invent the wheel, if nothing else we know that disc brakes are superior.

Nice truck. I just went to a show this last weekend. Got beat for best truck by a '52 Chevy. The truck was immaculate though with a perfect original inline! Saw a 1950 with a flathead 6 too. It was pretty awesome.

My project started in October 2013 and finished up this spring. Just keep whittling away at it and she'll be done.

Thanks, I'm gonna take it as a compliment that you replied to my thread!

I was down looking at my brakes today and wouldn't you know it that I am missing one of the small stubby springs for the Huck brakes...I can't find any online with any of the vendors...I can try to substitute, but surprised that nobody has those. I bought a hardware kit from the Filling Station, but it didn't include those pin springs that connect the arms on the brakes. I have all of the larger pins, but missing 1 of the 4 short stubbies that are on the arm pins.

Somebody has one or knows where to get it.Try posting it on some of the truck forums. I can't help you with that year.

Yes, I was able to find one. A friend up in Napa has one that is supposed to arrive today, and also, Jim Carter is sending me one for free with a new catalog. He's a nice guy, I've talked to him a couple times and have bought parts from him.

I still want to replace the fronts with Bendix, but I have all the Huck parts and have the relined shoes which are arc ground.

How's your truck coming along?

I'm out of state working again. When I went home last time one of my guys decided to clean out the shop and took my old front end and a bunch of other parts to the scrap yard. He got $92 for it all. Did you get my message about that? They also took two 250's

No worries, I'm gonna leave the Hucks on it for the time being.

I didn't get that message, I don't think.

I've been busy as all heck with my foundation which I'm building a log home on...my '46 is gonna end up living up there.

I have the brakes back together and will leave them like this for a bit until I get things ironed out. Hope to get the bearings and wheels on tomorrow and get this beast rolling again!

Sometimes we need to make them roll just to renew the excitement. I'll probably use the Huck brakes on the front of my roadster partly because the wheels I want to use will fit the drums.

The Bendix brakes are a direct replacement for the fronts, if you can find some. There is a 1/4" difference between width though, 1-3/4" vs. 2" on the Bendix.

If you look at the design, the Bendix makes a lot more sense as it doesn't really pivot, they slide in/out. I'm sure you know that BOTP, and I suspect the reason you're using them is the same reason I am...because I have all the parts in hand at the moment...

I've been appreciating some of the roadsters out there, that looks like a fun project...but I had better stick with this project as I have my hands full with my lake project. I can't wait to have the 'ol '46 up at the lake, puttering down to the hardware store along the lake, picking up some hardware and supplies, puttering back around the lake to work on the house...it all sounds magical...but life rarely works out so well...

Hi Keroppi . . .

The Huck versus Bendix debate is quite old. The 'apparent' preference to the Bendix system is somewhat distorted by past scarcity - as there was a time when Huck service components where just hard to come by. This caused many to switch over just to keep "rolling". But Huck service parts are plentiful today - and are of the same quality as available Bendix service components.

Moreover, the primary difference between the Huck and the Bendix system is pedal effort transmitted to breaking force at the drums. In a non-boosted system the Bendix requires less pedal effort compared to Huck. Period. Both systems require regular shoe/drum clearance adjustment - as the early Bendix design is absent the 'auto-adjusting' star wheels that are a great feature in the later versions.

Given that the Huck setup is installed and ready to go - I can see no reason to chase parts for a Bendix conversion.

I am running Huck on all four corners and with residual pressure valves and proper adjustment of shoe/drum clearance - Huck brakes rock!

regards,
stock49

I can't imagine that getting better over time, there are no pistons available, nor are there any of the anchor pin springs. So there are definitely parts that are not available.


Not what I'm seeing, but I have what I need which is the main thing. I wouldn't replace the rears anyway, so maybe having both Huck is an advantage.


Me neither. If I was going to disc brakes it would be different, and who knows, maybe that will happen one day. For the time being I'm going to keep the Hucks on it. And thanks for weighing in, I do appreciate hearing what other have to say.:)

The part I really need to use on my '26 roadster so the 18" wire spoke wheels will work is the '49 pickup drums from the Huck system. I don't know if they will work with the Bendix system If not I'll just use the Hucks that are on the axle now.

Hi Keroppi . . . perhaps I need to clarify. My point was with respect to so called 'service parts': shoes, replacement cylinders, cylinder rebuild kits, brake job hardware etc. Service parts are replaced every time the brakes are serviced. There was a time in the past that Huck service parts were being ignored in the aftermarket because of lack of demand. But demand has surged and there are re-manufactured 'service parts' a plenty.

As for the specific part of the Huck system that you have mentioned - only the 'lock' is a service part:
Anchor Pin Locking Clip


While the anchor pins and springs themselves - these were dealer only parts that were considered usable for the life of the vehicle. If they were lost or damaged then one had to go to a dealer parts counter for replacements - that is until they were considered obsolete. Then one could only find them at long established dealers with old stock still on the shelf - or at a bone yard.

regards,
stock49

That might be the only serviceable part, but it's not the only parts needed. As I mentioned, no pistons are available (cheap chinese wheel cylinders are), nor the anchor pin springs. If you buy a hardware kit they include the anchor pin locks you picture (some replace with e-clips), the springs, rubber to cover the adjuster holes, and the adjuster sprockets, so it is odd that that stuff is not available.



Certainly parts will be lost, parts will wear out, parts will be needed.

Don't get me wrong stock, I'm not really complaining, but just pointing out that Bendix parts are still available, AFAIK. Also, I have what I need and will collect some spares also, not a huge deal, but the operation of the Bendix is still superior, and they're easier to adjust. Aside from that, I plan to use the Hucks.

That I'm not sure of, but I have a passenger car axle and it's not a rigid drop axle. Sounds like a cool project!

Got the lines replaced, of course not without some fightin' with rusted nuts on the hard lines. I got things replaced though...just that a 15 minute job ends up taking 2-1/2 to 3 hours...





I still need to fill and bleed them, but hopefully should be good to go. Did I mention how f#@$'d up it is to work in the dirt, and especially with stickers all over the place... I do hope you're taking notes, I'm using my USPS free flat rate game size boxes. The USPS will deliver them to your door for FREE! XLNT ground mat...

Ok, it seems that I may have discovered my starting problem. When Since I got the truck I have experienced intermittent starting issues, and have always assumed it was the ground.

After getting everything back together, I couldn't get it started, and unintentionally broke the selector knob off the battery charger. No good deed goes unpunished as they say...

I ordered a new switch, installed it a couple days later, only to be faced with the same "my starter has no b@!!$" and couldn't turn it over.

Went back the next day and took the starter off, attached the battery charger with 6 volts 60 amps and I could reliably pretty the starter switch button and it worked. So, I instantly thought I would put it back on and test it again, only to find out the threaded copper post which the battery positive connect to was spinning as I was tightening it. I looked at this one at home and it seems it isn't made to spin as there is no way to tighten.

DISCLAIMER: this is NOT the bad switch, that one is still on the starter. This was with old parts in the glove box. This switch seems like a "consumable".





So I ordered a new switch from Jim Carter and will test that when it arrives, supposed to be here on Thurs.

If this fixes the starter problem, it will be a big relief. I thought I had that fixed with new cables, but after it sat for a couple months while I procrastinated on the brakes, it seems it didn't fix it.

Rather than a ground problem, it could very well be a positive problems...arrrrrggggggghhhhhhhhhh!

In most of those the copper block can be turned around and it's like new.

I gave my friends 34 year old nephew a ride in my '53 yesterday. He was really curious about the floor starter. He's a car guy but not our cars.

I don't see how you would do that with this switch unless you ground off the solder/weld holding the button on and could pull out the copper piece...at least by looking at it. The one on the truck is fubar, the threaded post is spinning and won't tighten up...either that's my problem or I f#@$'d it up in removing and attaching the positive cable.

I kind of like the floor starter...it just adds to the charm of the truck...

New switch came today, Henco en China, so you know it's good!

Maybe it is the copper block on the starter that can be turned around. It's been a while. The floor starter is another security check. The 34 year old could never have started it. With my bad E-brake it is sometimes more than fun to start on a hill. I need another foot!