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I'm getting ready to rebuild a 250 that was pulled from what was claimed to be a running '70 C10. I actually bought it for some other parts, but now I'm wanting to rebuild it and swap it with the 250 that's in my '70. I'd like to keep the rebuild under $1500 or so, if I can. My current 250 has a 2bbl Holley on a Transdapt adapter on a stock intake and Hedman headers and I plan to reuse those. Until the shop mics the cylinders, I don't know if I can get by with honing or if they'll need to be bored. Same with the crank, etc. I'm looking for suggestions to get what additional performance I can without blowing the budget. I'm allotting about $700 for basic machine work right now (tanking, cylinder boring, line boring, crank grind, decking, connecting rod pressing, etc). If I do have to replace pistons, what brand and model? Should I go ahead and replace the camshaft, and if so, something with a slightly more aggressive grind? I saw that 12bolt.com has a cam, but at $700, that'll wreck my budget. Also thinking about a lump kit, although for that to be effective, It seems I need to go to 1.94/1.60 valves (that's about a $200 kit with seats, etc). I'd really like to hear the thoughts of you that have some experience with this. I'd like to pick up what performance I can on my budget, but I know there's no way I'm hitting 400 HP without spending a LOT more. In a perfect world, a recipe would good. X pistons, Y cam, Z valves, do this, do that Thanks!
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Joined: Jan 2005
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Keeping the stock manifold is, IMHO, a mistake if you're going to do anything serious to the engine. What is your power goal?
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Keeping the stock manifold is, IMHO, a mistake if you're going to do anything serious to the engine. What is your power goal? I could go with an Offy (in fact, I have a triple-intake Offy and 3 carbs, but I'm really looking to sell that) and a 4 bbl. Not sure if you can find the Cliffords any more, although I haven't looked that hard. I'd basically like to get as much as I can get out of spending $1200 to $1500 for the total project. I'm not looking to make a race or drag truck, but the perkier the better.
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You may not need all of the "basic machining" you listed.
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You may not need all of the "basic machining" you listed. No, but I need to budget for it in case I do. I'll know once I get the block and head up to the machine shop. Maybe I'll have more money available for a more horses
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I can't remember when I first noticed the relationship between "what this engine needs" and signs that the shop needs money (not always open, fewer employees, won't answer the phone)... but it was a long time ago. Unless something bad happened, few engines need line boring.
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3 years ago I was given a 250 that had been rebuilt (stock specs) in the 80's and then sat in plastic all those years. I spent over $3k for a complete build with a bunch of 12bolt.com parts: Thrifty cam, 1.84/1.6 valves, cast valve covers, intake lumps, roller rockers.
If you can do a complete rebuild for $1500 please let me know your magic because I want to build another one for my wife's Camaro.
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Did you do the work on your build or have it done? That may be the difference. Of course there is some machine work most of us have to send out.
"I wonder if God created man because he was disappointed in the monkey?" Mark Twain
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Before you spend any money: have you considered using a 292?
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Your budget of 1500 is pretty slim.
My cams are not 700. Maybe the roller cams. But flat tappets are much less. 225-250 with lifters
Line honing is not needed on most blocks.
I would suggest on a budget. Put in larger intake valves, bolt in lumps, deck head .030 and run a cam with less than .480 lift to be able to use stock rocker arms. This cuts costs.
Inliner Member 1716 65 Chevelle Wagon and 41 Hudson Pickup Information and parts www.12bolt.com
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Replies to a couple of above posts.
Beater, I'll do the assembly work, but not any machine work. Honing I can do, but anything requiring cutting, no.
panic, A 292 would be nice, but they're hard to find, and they're expensive if you can find one. Or at least that's been my experience over the last couple years as I've been keeping an eye out for one. And if you don't see an engine running when you buy it, it's basically suspect and has to be gone complete through. Plus, I have a "spare" 250 I picked up for $100.
Tom, I went back through and looked, and the first cams I looked at were the billet cams, which are $600 (not $700). I found the Thrifty and friends cams, which are far less expensive, and that's what I'll go with. I'm still not sure how to decide which of the three to go with, based on the descriptions. I don't have enough experience with cam selection to just "know" that I want a certain lift and duration.
Any recommendations on pistons? The forged pistons would blow my budget. I was looking at the Keith Black/KB Pistons 1446C-0x0 as a possible choice.
Last edited by JC Wren; 01/17/20 01:53 PM.
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42" of displacement = $$$ speed equipment.
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I have never paid more than $500 for a complete running 292. And that one was delivered from east coast. There are still quite a few out there.
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