Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines Best 292 truck Cam?

That is what I have found in testing.
The lump may have added a few CFM, but not a noticeable amount of power on dyno. That is with stock valve size.

In these things I am always stunned that such small numbers make such a big difference. The difference in the area covered by a 1.72" valve and a 1.84" valve is 0.3357 of a square inch. The difference in the circumference is 0.377" and diameter 0.12".

So where the difference comes is in how much more fuel mixture can flow through the larger hole doing the time the piston is on the intake stroke and the intake valve is open. Velocity is important to both move enough mixture[to fill the cylinder and to keep it mixed. If the new hole is too big the velocity can fall off.

I don't think it can work. These things are just a fad that won't last.

I didn't mean to re-open the 194 can of worms. I will need a head for my truck and the cleanest nicest one I have is a 194. I do think that since we have opened the Club to All inline Engines that the truck versions need to be a part. The tow truck and race car both using the same engine is like the old handgun and rifle cartridge combinations.

Here is a 194 head offered on eBay. They offer a open chamber head too.

LINK

The seller responded to my questions about these heads. He said the 194 would boost compression about one point. He has no flow data. The chamber volumes are 65CC and 72CC. Thats keeping them pretty small for those big valves.

Now using the stock 250 head will their be any appreciable gain using lump ports? I am also building a low RPM ( idle to 3500) truck motor to use pulling a small trailer if the swap meets ever start again.

Gary I have an idea for the swap meets. You could get one of those mister setups people use to cool their decks and run it around the canopy of your space. Use an alcohol solution to sanitize everyone and everything. Maybe the Margaritas would work.

Beater
there are a few 194 heads ( castings) that run the 72cc's And that is the same as Or very close to the other heads 230,250,292.
And the CCs can range from 72.? to 74.00 CCs So really Not matter which head you want to run with IT is in Best interest to un-Shroud the Valves If you want the Head to breath the best that it can to start with. NO matter Which head that it is. Bottom Line.

And one more thing The 194 head That I built That RE-set a Old track rec. flowed Over 250 cfm and If I remember right it had around 62 CCs on the chamber. MAYBE??? a touch more

I just posted that link to show that they are out there. I have no intention of spending that kind of money on a head for this truck. If I can do something to improve it some I will. The 72CC head he sells is the 230-292 head.

I'll get Leo's book out again and do some studying. The biggest mystery in that book for me is the mere mention of building a six cylinder head using two 181 four cylinder heads. It would be a 12 port that would bolt on with all the valve stuff in the right place.

Many have also done it with the V8 heads. but that is a bunch of work either way.

Fabricating a head will cost more than buying a 12 port.

The 194 head will serve you well for your intended purpose!

Thanks, That is where I'm headed, so to speak. If it doesn't work it's only bolted on.
The 292 is a great truck engine stock. If I can make it a little better at the bottom end I'll be happy. I have everything I need with the exception of a .030 over block. There mat be one of those too.

Beater,

Since you have a plethora of hardware. Use head studs and stage a few head, intake, carb combinations, and see which one you like best.

Regards,
Rick

Beater
Just don't try to run a flat in that 292 with the 194 head.
because you will end up with more compression then you want, Stay with a dished piston. stock dish or no more then the LP piston.
Unless you have one of the 194 heads that has the 72cc.

No flat tops, Pistons are Silvolites dish rated at 8to1.

The combination I'll like the best is whatever gets the truck back on the road. A new set of heads for the 350 that's in it now is looking better and better.

Tom if you need a 292 Block I have a complete engine sitting in the shop you can have.

I hear you on that note. It's always cheaper at half the cost lol.

Gary. I have a few but if I don't have a good on I'll take you up on that. i have a 0.080 over 250 that might make a good truck engine if light doesn't shine through the cylinder walls.

Cheaper doesn't seem to be what we do, nor does easier.

NOPE that is for sure. Doing it right the first time mite cost more but cheaper then doing it Twice.

My new truck cam from Crower came in the mail yesterday, pretty quick I think since they had to grind it. Just a reminder low lift, low RPM, high torque, and fuel economy designed to work with stock valve train and head.
Advertised Duration: intake.240 exhaust .248
Total lift: intake. .438" exhaust .450"

I've decided to to basically use the Sissle "Econoflow" head as descried on Page 90 of Leo's book for a model for my head.

"The head bolt boss in the middle of the intake ports should be shaped like a wing, but left in place. Removing the boss will gain about 5 CFM on a stock valve size head, but the subsequent loss of velocity in the port will more than offset the gain."

Beater
I have a Head done up with the winged shaped Boss If you need or want pics. It is sitting on a 230 I have here in the shop.

Thanks Larry that would help. The picture in Leo's book doesn't show much.

Larry,

+1 what Beater wrote . The pic in the book looks like a normal boss. If you can post, that would be great. If not, please PM pic to me too.

Thanks,
Rick

I can give it a quick buff up so I can get some good clean photo's.
But I may need your guy's email to get you the photo's. Seeing that i'm no longer a Paid member of this club. I may not be able to post or send you the photo's here.

The bosses have been welded to a wing shape/ knife edge.

That would be fine I'll send you my email address

Pic's have been Emailed guys I hope you get them.

I don't know much about what all this means but here are my cam specs. I'm going a different direction.
Crower steel billet solid roller cam
intake duration 268 deg. lift .479
exhaust duration 272 deg lift .479
lobe seperation 114 deg.
rocker ratio 1.75 7/16"

I don't understand cam specs. Numbers that look very similar to me seem to do quite different things to an engine.

The cam number that represents the largest change per degree of difference is the LSA: large number means smaller overlap.

That would make for a good turbo, blower, super charger, or some NOS motor hehe.

Sorry Larry I messed with it for two hours and I can not get the pictures on here. I'mat try again when I'm a little calmer. That is why there are so few pictures on this site.

I got it this morning but I can not delete this post. Another issue here is that we can not edit or remove our old posts.

Here are pictures of an intake port with a "wing" welded to the front of the head bolt boss to lessen the effect of the boss on air flow. The back side of the boss is not changed because of limited access to weld and add material. This was done by Twisted6 and sent to me. Thanks Larry.

I'm running a 4-71 blower and 3 Rochester 2 bbls

Nice mick53 do you have any photo's?.

Thank you beater for up loading those.

If the boss was narrowed as much as possible while shaping to help flow how much wall thickness would need to be left to assure proper head bolt torquing?

Can the boss be removed and replaced with a wing shaped piece?. Just thinking'

Gary, Anything can be done but is it worth it? Do you and I need it? I just posted some thoughts on the other thread.

jalopy45

That was done a long time ago and it was made of Alum. There was a Templet in one hot rod mag. that was true to size. I made a few back in the mid 80s before I started making the bolt-in tear drop style lump.

Anyway the fit has to be tight to the port so you can get the right torque on the head bolt. And you need to make sure that the treads have sealer on then Or you will end up with water in the intake port, as the head bolt is in the water jacket.
I hope this helps.
PS. it also had a small tab like at the back of the port and a small indent was made in the back of the port to help keep the wing in place.

Now to the head I have on my engine now, it is an integeral head with a 2 bbl. base which will work with my 2 bbl FI body, for a truck are they all that bad? I know a lot of the early ones were prone to cracking and it does come with a dual exhaust. Not sure what the engineers had in mind, maybe if it wasn't something to do with torque? I have other heads

Around .100" thick on the sides is adequate.