Feel free to flame me on this one. As some have seen in my previous posts, I have collected a lot of stuff for my future builds. I have 3 292s and 5 250s. I traded my 230 for a Ford 200 (I have a 60 Ranchero with a 144).
I have come to the conclusion that the 292, though it is a bigger and badder engine than the 250, has a very limited number of aftermarket parts and a smaller number of spare engines out in the gene pool. The performance parts are particularly expensive. Not so much for the 250 as we can steal some parts from it's cousins.
That being written, what I intend to do is spend my money on what will pay me back with the most performance and reliability for the least amount of money regarding the 292s. I have 1 65 C20 and 2 65 C10s these will go into. These will be street trucks.
A stock short block rebuild with a balance of the rotating assembly. Only bored if needed, same with any journals. Make the bottom end as smooth and as bulletproof as possible. A turbo or RV cam. The top end, I am probably keep stock as well to keep low end torque and fuel economy. Will mod the spring as needed. Clean up the ports and I may go to 1.84/1.60 valves, if costs permit. That's where stock-ish ends. I have a couple of SPA turbo manifolds and a GT45 turbo (and others). I have multiple intake options. So for more or less the cost of all the go fast parts specific to the 292. I can get a SPA turbo manifold and the turbo stuff (buy extras if you get parts from the bay) and make it go fast (and adjustably fast). Spend the other monies on long block reliability. If you have the time, desire, and money...add the expensive go fast internals later.
I think you mentioned you had been told, "Don't over think it". I agree. Make the build solid and long lasting then add a turbo or nitrous for times you need go fast. This is a street build correct? Just don't boost beyond the capabilities of stock components. Which is still pretty decent.
I discovered what you mentioned about the 292 after I bought the engine. Some say it is a great engine and can get decent economy, and others say it is a great engine that will suck a ton of fuel. I did a ton of research before each part's purchase, and feel I have bought the right things for a solid reliable build. The bottom end will be balanced, the top end in conjunction with the exhaust will flow more cfm than it did stock, and the lumps should keep some the low-end torque from what I hear, as they increase the velocity in the runners, or at least through the intake ports of the head. The cam is supposed to be a good low-end-mid-range cam. The engine will either run great or be pretty boat anchor...lol...either way I am too far in the build and too much money invested to let it go now. May as well finish the truck with the 292 build and see how it runs. I have a feeling it will run just fine. The truck will be used as a truck, and will be a highway cruiser as well. It will have 4.11:1 rear end gears, and with the gear-splitter overdrive, the final drive will be 3.00:1, and then it will come down to tire size to dial-in the sweet spot in the powerband. Using the truck as a highway cruiser was the plan until a certain someone ruined things, and if prices ever get back to normal, that plan for the truck will hold. Having 40 gallon capacity will break the bank at each fill-up if prices don't drop.
The "don't overthink it" was from my machinist regarding using a torque plate. The first time I mentioned using a torque plate, after he told me I was overthinking it, we agreed not to use one. Later on, Tom shared with me in this thread about ross pistons needing a special hone for their rings, but didn't answer when I asked about more specifics on the subject. That lead me to do more research where I discovered the ross pistons/rings require a torque plate. I did some more research and found Silv-o-lite pistons, and then called to speak to a Silv-o-lite rep about their pistons and the Hastings rings they recommend, and he said a torque plate is recommended but not required for a build like mine. When I relayed to my machinist that info I had just learned about ross and silvolite, he thought I was wanting to use a torque plate again and then told me again I was overthinking a stock build. To which, I let him know I was just sharing info about the piston change in case he needed to know that before checking the bores for honing/boring, and finishing the block.
I have thought about turbocharging with a low boost, but that will have to wait. If I do go with a turbo later on, I may ditch the quadrajet and go with a sniper 2g setup. I actually considered the sniper 2g setup in the early going of my parts collecting. I won't add nitrous, even though the bottom end can handle it.
