Yep, 1 turn past 0 lash.
I only adjusted the new ones since they were the ones making noise. I use a stethoscope and listen with the probe at the middle of the rocker arm.
The engine was warm, but not to full operating temp.
If I tightened the #6 intake valve another quarter turn, the engine would run rough until the lifter bled down. The noise would go away while the valve was too tight, and then return after the lifter bled down. I didn’t try this on #6 exhaust since it wasn’t making noise.
I’ve been thinking about the valve spring idea this week and I think I agree. If the spring couldn’t close the valve quick enough, the lifter would pump up to take up the slack. That’s why they make anti-pumpup lifters for high rpm use.
I’m thinking about pulling the pushrods from #6 and making sure the noise quits to be absolutely sure its valve train noise and not piston slap or connecting rod bearing.
If I can convince myself there’s nothing wrong except valve train noise, I’ll be willing to spend $300-400 or so and replace everything from the cam up to the valve. Then I’ll have a whole new set of questions about recommendations.
What dou you think?
regards,
Leon
