Dry sump pans have come along way in the last 5 years. Their advancement is like how for piston rings have come in the last 5 years. The design of the pan is very important and if not done correctly will cost you HP. Done correctly you will gain HP. In general dry sump systems were used to lower the engine in the chassis. But if you can get away with it a deeper sump will help make HP. A 3” kick out on the passenger side will help in the scavenging and oil control. Segmenting the pan (on a 6 cylinder sementing into 3 compartments will gain HP) Depending on the pump you will pull some good vacuum, so you will need to put a oil rail for the pistons. The NASCAR boys have done a lot of testing on this and one of the best pan companies is
http://www.bsrproducts.com They don’t list the pans in their catalog , but they make a lot of pans for the NASCAR teams and know all the new tricks. Call them and ask for Phil Stefaneli, he is one of the owners 704-795-0901.
To build a proper pan you will need an either a good blue print of the block or the block it- self for proper fitting. On my pan I eliminated the pan gasket and went with an “O” ring. I have also seen two-piece pans where the bottom is on a “O” ring so you can check the bearings without pulling the pan. Also remember the pump is also very important and all pumps aren’t built the same. Ask the pump manufacture for the efficiency rating and how long they can hold that, and most wont even tell you.
Edy, The 12bolt drop in for the 9” Ford is the best of both worlds. You get to run 12 bolt gears with their better pinion angle in the Ford 9’. A lot of Pro Mod drag cars run them and they are in the 1000HP plus category
