efi
i have given thought to all the angles the air has to travel before seeing a piston. the entire intake track would need to be rehashed. i am not against it, it is not what i want right now with driving time at hand. maybe this long cold winter when i have more time.


hank,
i started to lean it out on the dyno. the 2nd and third runs leaned up the top end after 4K rpm. i was going to do more when the convertor bolts decided not to play nice.

as far as the spark timing thing. here goes my explanation:
180 is full boost (appro 12 psi)
92 is engine shut off (no vacum)
9 is full vacum
while at cruise rpm or even at idle my engine never sees more than 15 inchs of vacum. @ cruise it is more like 10 in.
which equates to a map reading of 36- 45 on the chart.

i have given thought to opening the head to intake port area. here is what i am going to do.

first fix the convertor and flywheel.

second, pull intake and open the intake/head port as wide and tall as it will go. presently it is the size of the gasket. i will also open up the gasket.

i think with the opening it will allow more airflow, thus more torq will be generated.

i was never surprised by my hp #'s on the dyno. hp is a calculation derived from torq and rpm. hp will never be higher than tq before 5250 rpm on any engine because of the calculation. my dynoing quit at 4800 rpm. i do expect to get the tq # higher without jumping the boost higher. i just have to keep on tuning it.


Inliner Member 1716
65 Chevelle Wagon and 41 Hudson Pickup
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