Oh ha ha ha. I didn't even think about buying another bung for it.

Thanks for that mod. Makes sense how it works now.

WHY IS ARP HARDWARE SO EXPENSIVE?? I mean I had the rebuild priced out on summit (Main bearings, cam bearings, rod bearings, gasket kit, and ARP hardware) and the ARP hardware alone was like $200? Is it really necessary to get ARP studs? What benefit does it provide?

And if I have a running motor, would I need to replace the piston rings? I doesn't seem like I would need to unless they're damaged right?

And I've been reading up on wrist pins and it got me wondering. When I'm disassembling the engine, would I need to even separate the pistons from the rods since I'm using the stock rods and pistons? Are wrist pins something you'd need to replace? And the 250 uses pressed wrist pins right? Not "floater" pins with retainer rings? And if I ever decided to upgrade to forged pistons, would I need to take the connecting rod/piston somewhere to get the pin out or could I do it myself? And to get it in, don't you just heat the connecting rod and slide it in and oil it?

And what do you guys suggest in terms of cams/valvetrain? Do I need to get a whole new valvetrain (cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers, rocker studs, valves)? My plan was to get a whole new valvetrain with CompCams recommendation for a turbo cam. and it seems like I remember needing a new valve cover for non-stock rockers?

69 Buick Special Deluxe. Intercooled Turbo Chevy 250 @ 15psi on a stock long block. It's kinda fast.