WHY IS ARP HARDWARE SO EXPENSIVE?? I mean I had the rebuild priced out on summit (Main bearings, cam bearings, rod bearings, gasket kit, and ARP hardware) and the ARP hardware alone was like $200? Is it really necessary to get ARP studs? What benefit does it provide? ARP is the best, probably part of the reason of it's price. Are you talking about the main caps & installing studs there? If so, it's not manditory to use studs. High HP high RPM? Use main studs & dowell the main caps. Benefit, there hardware usually does not break.
And if I have a running motor, would I need to replace the piston rings? I doesn't seem like I would need to unless they're damaged right? Rings wear out, they dont seal as good when they were new. You can perform a cyl leakage test to see how well the "running motor" is sealing up. It's always a good idea @ least to hone the bores & install new rings, you don't need to do it if everything is up to snuff. But, I would install a new set, & you need to know how they are installed, they have markings on them & instructions when you buy new.[/color]
And I've been reading up on wrist pins and it got me wondering. When I'm disassembling the engine, would I need to even separate the pistons from the rods since I'm using the stock rods and pistons? Are wrist pins something you'd need to replace? And the 250 uses pressed wrist pins right? Not "floater" pins with retainer rings? And if I ever decided to upgrade to forged pistons, would I need to take the connecting rod/piston somewhere to get the pin out or could I do it myself? And to get it in, don't you just heat the connecting rod and slide it in and oil it?
If you are just reusing your old piston & rods & slapping it back together,then , no you do not need to remove your piston pins. You would need a fixture & a press to get them out(most likely) people do not have a fixture to hold the pistons correctly, & if you do not, you will dammage/break a piston. (Shop recommended)
There are special little ovens to put a rod into to super heat the small end (I mean glowing red) & you only have a few seconds to slide the pin in, if not slid into place correctly & in time, you will need a press & fixture to properly press the pin in all the way (it's sort of a pain when you dont slide it in on time)
If you are installing new rods bolts, you would need to remove the pistons from the rods & get the big end of the rods resized.
And what do you guys suggest in terms of cams/valvetrain? Do I need to get a whole new valvetrain (cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers, rocker studs, valves)? My plan was to get a whole new valvetrain with CompCams recommendation for a turbo cam. and it seems like I remember needing a new valve cover for non-stock rockers?
If you do not want to get new valve train, you do not necessarily need it. If you get a new cam, you need new lifters.If you see worn/bent push rods, replace them. Personaly, I like to install new valve train so there is less to worry about. If you use/buy aluminum roller rocker arms,you need a larger internal valve cover. I believe the Clifford valve cover is supposed to clear for such an issue. I use an Offy valve cover w/gold Crane rocker arms, I have to clearance the valve cover on both ends & round off the # 1 & 12 rocker arms. I also stacked some valve cover gaskets.
Companys always suggest, to use match sets of gears drives for the camshaft. Meaning, if you buy a new camshaft gear you would need to buy a new crank gear drive also.
Guy are making valve cover spacers now to give a bit more clearance (raise the valve cover higher) better idea than stacking gaskets B.T.W. Example: http://www.t6racing.org/id4.html
