Inliners International Forums General Discussion Blown and Injected snowman4839 turbo build

I wasn't trying to get off topic again... CNC-Dude said that with what I've already bought, I shouldn't cut corners now especially with block work I.E. Boring. And since I'm boring it out and I'll need new pistons anyway, how much are a set of forged pistons? Because all I saw were the ones on 12bolt from Tom and those were a bit pricey but I don't know what they should go for anyway. Also, do the pistons have to be made specifically for a 250 for whatever reason or can you just use a set of forged pistons with a bore of 3.875" (if the bore is stock)? Or do they have different wrist pin sizes? How can you tell what pistons will fit?
Like can I bore it .040" over and use these pistons? (I'm going to compare them to stock reproduction pistons) It says they're for a Jeep but they have the right size bore (if I bore it .040" over, same size rings, press fit pins, their wrist pins have a size difference of .004", but the thing that might really mess it up is that their compression distance is .287" different (the jeeps pistons being shorter). Could you shave the top of the block enough to compensate? Because if you just put those in there with that much of the cylinder left uncompressed, the compression ratio would be way too low. I also found GMC pistons where the wrist pin size is correct but the compression distance is .287 too tall rather than .287 too short like on the jeep

EDIT: SCRATCH ALL OF THAT ^^^^^ I've been doing a lot of looking and it looks like my best bet would be a set of 307 forged pistons right? The only difference is like .05" in the compression height. But those are still hard to find too!

I'm using a fluxcore mig welder. I can't afford a new welder after all this stuff but it seems to work fine to hold pipe together.

I know I probably should have waited until I got the manifold on the car to start this but I wanted a rough idea down and from the crude measurements I took, it will fit right about the frame rail and have about a 0.5"-1" of clearance. I'm going to take my manifolds on my car off for a weekend and then get the fitting all sorted out and then build the other engine with that pipe knowing that it will fit.

What was that guy running in terms of compression and fuel? It would be very impressive if he was running premium with like 9:1 with no meth injection. But if it's just race fuel then it's not street practical.

I think the bolt flange is 16 gauge steel. Where would you buy anything thicker? That's the thickest TSC or Lowes or Home Depot carry.

The T4 flange is like 1/2" thick I think and instead of reshaping the pipe, I was going to grind away at the lower part of the flangewall until I hit the pipe so it will make a smoother transition from the pipe to the turbo.

and no my dad hasn't dragged his car yet. We're still working on putting the front end together on it. We're putting in new springs, shocks, spindles, disc brakes, brake lines, master cyl and booster, proportioning valve, ball joints, idler arms, blah blah blah... on the front end so that it can handle the heavier block (350SB to 400BB) and because it needs it. But his engine and transmission (Buick 400 v8 and Turbo 400 with shift kit) are waiting to go in. I told you it made 300hp, 410ft/lbs @ the crank a while back.

So...
Rods: Resize with ARP bolts installed then Magnaflux
Head: Magnaflux then new valve guides, basic porting job, resize valves, valve job.
Crank: Polish, turn (if needed), then magnaflux
Block: Cam bearings (How do I know if I need them?) and is that a no on the alignment hone?

Does anyone know a Rick C. on this board? I got an email from him saying he posted on one of my threads but I couldn't find any new comments that lead me to believe it was him.