should you discover a pit in the cylinder wall, I would suggest sleeving.
BUT BE SURE to have the machinest to leave a lip at the bottom of the bore for the sleeve to bear, then the machinest will plane the top of the sleeve flush with the deck and all will be right. 'cause without the bottom lip the sleeve can/will be able to slip down, and the head will do a suitable job preventing slip in other direction. If the machinest uses the wrong amout of interference fit this slippage will occur. Now the machinest will protest and say thats not necessary and never seen it happen in his blah-blah years etc.
well he's been lucky but he cant/wont fix if it does happen.
I've had two sleeves and had 50% luck. And the unsucessful one was only fixed by a $1500.00 replacement block, Twice it was "glued"(gasso"ed or some other miracle cure)back in place. Three times it slipped down 'til a rod would hit it and the tapping would put you on the side of the road again, by some act of faith, no broken pieces.
The sucessful sleeve had the bottom lip, again protested by the machinest as not necessary. This was my block, not his, and if he didn't want to "square" the bottom of the sleeve to rest on the lip, and put a slight champher on the o.d. so it could be driven in place--then he would not be doing the job. Lots of times there is not a complete wall left after the boring to have, or to trust to a simple interference fit. The sucessful sleeve was in a '62 327 block that lasted until a fleeing rod left the scene. This sleeve never slipped.
Eh Tu cnc dude?
