Ok you got to me. I adjusted the carb on the Nova for low and high idle speed. Turning the allen head screw in speeds up the engine when the wire to the solonid is unplugged. Mine was so loose that I am surprised that it didn't fall out. All is good now,just bump the key (when the engine is warmed up) and it starts easily without touching the pedal. May I suggest milling the "new" head for a compression increase with the stock bottom end. Also consider replacing the stock cam at the same time with something a little hotter. Jay 6155
OK, I'm not sure how you got it to do that? When I unplug my solenoid, the engine stops dead. Were you starting it after unplugging? Mine is cold starting hard and bogging until warmed up, so I would like to be able to adjust this.
Yeah, milling the head is required, but doing the math it seems that even milling the head down to 70cc won't make up for the compression lost to the 0.040" replacement gasket. So my piddly 8.1:1 CR will drop even further. Of course I won't know for sure the stock ratio or effect of changes, until I crack open the top end and can CC the integrated head and pistons, measure gasket thickness and check the closing point of the intake valve on the cam.
I presume the intake ABDC closing point of the stock integrated cam is going to be the earliest of all possible cam swaps. Comp Cams' two mildest cams 240XE and 252XE both have an intake closing of 48 degrees ABDC, so I'm assuming the stock cam is less than 48 degrees. And if the static compression ratio decreases, a hotter cam is just going to decrease the dynamic compression ratio even less than keeping the stock cam or advancing the stock cam.
I'm also assuming that after I invest near $1000 in a replacement head, manifold, carb, and 2.5" 292 HD exhaust manifold; I'm not going to have the funds for a new cam at the same time. Cam swap would probably need to be a stage 2 upgrade by itself, or part of the eventual bottom end rebuild when it can be matched to the final static CR when flat tops are installed and block zero decked. If I match a cam up for best DCR with stock bottom and modified top, it probably will be too little cam when the bottom end is upgraded and will need to be swapped again at that point. But again, I'll have a better idea of how that will work when I pop the top off and do all the measurements. Right now is just guesswork.
Also the 180psi to 190psi I'm getting off the cylinders leaves me a little more confident that the stock CR is a little higher than advertised, and will make the stage 1 swap power gain possible without having to swap the cam.
