When I said 2 piece valve, I meant 2 piece spring. My bad. That's why I was asking about the spring compressor and how I would break it in with the outer spring only but then compress it and find a way to get the inner spring compressed when I put it on. But that compression bar using the stud seems like it'll work. I made one but it doesn't work with it out of the car because the whole head just rolls and I cant keep the head down even by standing on it to compress the spring. Should work fine with the head bolts in though.
Well both the upper and lower compression rings had broken in addition to that chunk of side wall between them. Correct me if I'm wrong but that seems like the ring gap was too small and the amount of heat it was generating closed the gap to the point that they touched and expanded enough to break themselves and the lands around them. Plus I'd imagine the detonation pushed it over the edge.
I'm not planning on rembuilding the engine on account of all the damage. The cuts in the surface of the crank were enough to make me forgo that. Plus now that I know there's a possibility of the new cam I buy being at any risk, I'll just stick to some other block. All the machine work needed is not worth it when I have that other good long block I can go buy.
Again I'm not understanding why I would go buy a set of $600 pistons when again you guys say they're just as susceptible to breaking. I'd rather break a set of $100 pistons 6 times over the next 5 years than 1 set of $600 pistons in one year.
Just notice that that set of rockers was only 8. I'll probably end up buying that set too Tom.
I pressure tested all the pistons before I took the engine out. Everything was fine except for that one piston. IIRC, they were all at like 110-115psi except for one 95psi I think.
Piston with the bad landing looked fine up top.
and so did every other one
69 Buick Special Deluxe. Intercooled Turbo Chevy 250 @ 15psi on a stock long block. It's kinda fast.
