Inliners International Forums General Discussion Blown and Injected snowman4839 turbo build

So I just pulled the other pistons. They were all perfectly fine assuming there were no invisible cracks and whatnot. Closely did a 360 look of all the pistons and bent each of the rings some to see if they would fall apart. Everything looked peachy.
The ring gap though... wow. It was bigger than .035". I didn't have file gauges bigger than that. It was probably like .050"

Assuming my budget at the end of the summer looks good, then I might just send my original block off to get bored for a set of forged pistons... :-/ y'all might've convinced me. It still bugs me though that the main clearances were so tight in that engine with stock bearing replacements. I still don't understand how it could be that wrong.
Because that clearance is wrong, doesn't that mean I'd need to have the crank turned and by oversized bearing and hope I don't get the same problem?

Are there forged pistons that are swappable with the 250 pistons?
I saw Tom had some (I'm assuming the 250 is the 5.7" rod length) but they'd bring my compression up to 9.47 as it said on Tom's site. That seems pretty high for a turbo application.
Unless... try to follow me. Why do people use drop compression just to increase boost? It seems like if you want to go from a high compression motor (like 10.25:1) to a boost application you would just drop it to like 9.25 or 9.5 and boost it like 5-7psi instead of dropping it to 8.0 or 8.5 and boosting 15-17psi so then you don't have to worry about increasing the intake charge as much. Isn't the final compressed cylinder pressure what you're worried about? Like compression ratio * (14.7 + boost psi)? Why wouldn't they be the same as long as that formula balances?

Also Tom's were floating pin as opposed to press in. Does the wrist pin smaller than normal compensate or does the connecting rod end need to be enlarged?

Also I've never even thought to ask this. How do you choose whether to increase boost or timing? Because they both increase power but in a different way. Like how do you know if you've maxed out timing for that psi or if you've maxed out power in general. Because if I change the compression ratio, I wouldn't have a clue about timing or psi at 9.47:1.

Also how do engine builders and dyno shops know when they've reached max timing? Are they just that skilled at hearing knocking or is there like a rule of like back of 4* at any audible knocking? Or do they usually have knock setups to put into the engines while they're tuning them.

I'm gonna work on getting a knock sensor and then building a circuit to work with my microcontroller to buzz at me or light an LED or something when it gets a knock. I mean all it is a resistor that activates at certain frequencies.

Since that offenhauser intake mounts my carb sideways and makes my linkage on the wrong side and I realized that they make a 90* carb rotation adapter, is there any reason rotating it 90* so that he bowl points toward the front wouldn't work? Like something about the gas sloshing up against the metering block and jets messing up the mix or something. I know it sounds ridiculous but I figured I'd ask.