I'm actually just going to forgo having the machine shop do my head and just have Tom do me a head. I figure who better than a fellow inliner. Plus I trust Tom to do the lump ports correctly over myself and especially a machine shop.

I just got my first paycheck so the parts should start rolling in soon. I don't imagine I'll find a better deal than the Ross pistons Tom has so I'll probably end up getting those. Then I can zero deck, the block use that 0.041" gasket to get the appropriate quench, and then just get the combustion chambers up to 78cc to get a 9.0:1 comp ratio. I believe that was something Tom could do while preparing the head.

I just ordered a set of micrometers and I got a dial bore gauge earlier this summer so that I can do assembly correctly and confidently. During the week I have between my job and school beginning next semester, I will be taking apart the block I'm going to get machined. During this same time, I'm going to be packing up the head and the Tom's head rebuild kit to send off to Tom to get that started. Then I can just have my block and pistons/rods at the machine shop getting done while the head is prepared at Tom's. Then I'm guessing some time in October, I'll have all the parts back and other parts purchased and I can begin assembly.

Other parts I plan to buy during this time period (in this order): new engine wiring harness, a stronger clutch and pressure plate, meth injection system (brand recommendations anyone?), and a J&S safeguard (most likely).

Few questions for y'all.
-Was original rocker ratio 1.7 or 1.75?
-I'm going to get a set of roller rockers to go with the new head and valvetrain. My cam's lift is .5145" (I'm assuming that's with the 1.75) but the springs can handle up to .550". Why not just get a set of 1.8 rockers and bump that up to .529"? Is there any reason not to add valve lift?
-I was looking at a few of Tom's turbo cams and wondering...
--why have different intake/exhaust durations (Toms is 218/212 vs my recommended 218/218)
--same question about lift (.521/.512 vs .5145/.5145)
--why not get the max lift your springs/valves can handle?
-how will the cam gear set work with the new cam? Is that something specific to the cam or can I just press off the stock gear set and onto the new one?
-is there a way to screw up the cam install? shouldn't it just be match the cam gear dot to the crank gear dot? It seems like I remember some gear sets let you advance or retard the camshaft to change the power band (which also leaves room for error)
-will I need to worry about piston-to-valve clearance with this larger lift, decking, and slight head shaving?

lastly, will I need to worry about measuring all the clearances and sizes and whatnot of the engine before sending it off to be machined? Like do I need to KNOW that it needs a line hone (and go measure all the mains) or can I just tell the machine shop to line hone it if it needs it i.e. will they do all the measurements anyway making all the my pre-machining measurements superfluous.

69 Buick Special Deluxe. Intercooled Turbo Chevy 250 @ 15psi on a stock long block. It's kinda fast.