Finally got the transmission in and driving. Had some electrical issues when my ground wire pulled out of a connector unbeknownst to me, but got that sorted. I didn't initially believe the line pressure being read by the sensor because it was so high, excess of 250psi, but put a mechanical gauge on it and it confirmed.
The way it works is the Microsquirt transmission computer commands the pressure relief valve to open or close a certain amount, but does not directly command a pressure. So a sensor is needed to see how much pressure it's making at a given opening. Fortunately there is plenty of control on it and I am easily able to bring it down to 90psi in neutral, 150psi under normal driving conditions and 200psi at WOT. This is good for the transmission, transmission pump and for the engine thrust bearing surface.
I have not foot braked the converter, but locking it in high gear and hitting the throttle puts the rpm right at 2,700rpm while the car continues to accelerate. It really does not start moving the car until about 1,500rpm, which is a new experience to me. Fortunately it's a lockup style converter so shouldn't have any issues slipping in the long run. I can lock it up in 2nd gear at low loads. I have a terrible video of going for a test drive at 10:00pm, but photobucket is taking its sweet time loading it up.
I'm using a ~2005 4L60e and its longer than the 200-4r I removed by about 3". This is the second time I've cut the driveshaft and welded it back together, lol. However this time, the shortened driveshaft just has to get me by until I put a 9" rear axle in then the new driveshaft on the left will go in.
Using LS transmissions on old engines is tricky. I read in a few places that I needed a .400" thick spacer, but when I put it together the torque converter was bottomed in the transmission and buried in the crankshaft. I determined I needed a ~.625" (5/8") spacer to pull the torque converter off the transmission by about 1/8". Fortunately Summit sells BOP adapter plates that are 5/16" thick, so I bought two and had one water jetted to clear the flywheel.Then every thing lined up.
I used the same dipstick and tube as I had on the 200-4r, but moved the mounting tab down to account for the different location of the dipstick hole, as well as marked the dipstick for the proper "full" level.
Bought the longest dowels I could too. The deep skirt nature of the OHC L6 puts the starter in a lower position than most GM engines, so I had to trim the bellhousing to clear the starter nose cone.
Started back on the exhaust plumbing. Short of going all the way back past the transmission then front again the cross over pipes were going to hang low. So I went under the oil pan for the time being. I bought a few sets of flanges so I can unbolt the cross over, but summit was one flange short for how many I needed so I am waiting for the last flange to come in to finish up the pipes and welding. Then I'll have to plumb in the wastegate. Going to put it on the passenger side and will likely dump right into the down pipe.
